Why Knitting Patterns Look So Scary (At First)
You find a beautiful pattern online. You open it excitedly. Then you see this:
"CO 88 sts. Join to work in the rnd, pm BOR. *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Work in 2×2 rib for 1.5", then inc rnd: [k1, M1R] to last st, k1."
And suddenly you want to close the tab.
Here's the truth: knitting patterns are not written to confuse you. They're written in shorthand — a compressed language designed to save space and keep instructions precise. Once you learn to decode it, patterns become clear, logical, and even satisfying to follow.
This guide teaches you exactly how.
Step 1 — Always Read the Whole Pattern First
Before you cast on a single stitch, read the entire pattern from top to bottom. You don't need to understand every line yet. You're looking for:
- How many sizes are included and which one you're making
- What skills are required — if you spot "short rows" or "cabling" and don't know what those mean, look them up before you start
- Any special techniques listed in the notes section
- The overall structure — does it go top-down or bottom-up? Is it knit flat or in the round?
This 10-minute read prevents 90% of mid-project surprises.
Step 2 — Decode the Abbreviations
Every pattern includes an abbreviations key — usually near the top or bottom. Always use the pattern's own key, because abbreviations can vary between designers and countries.
Here are the most universal ones you'll encounter:
Basic Stitches
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| sl | slip (move stitch without knitting it) |
| wyif / wyib | with yarn in front / with yarn in back |
Increases
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| M1R | make 1 right — lifts the bar between stitches, leans right |
| M1L | make 1 left — same, but leans left |
| kfb | knit front and back — increases 1 stitch |
| yo | yarn over — creates a stitch and a small eyelet hole |
Decreases
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k2tog | knit 2 together — leans right |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit — leans left |
| p2tog | purl 2 together |
| skp | slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over |
Structure & Markers
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| CO | cast on |
| BO / cast off | bind off (finish your stitches) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| rem | remaining |
Step 3 — Understand Repeat Symbols
This is where most beginners get lost. Patterns use symbols to avoid writing the same instructions 50 times.
Asterisks * *
The most common repeat symbol.
*K2, p2; rep from * to end
This means: knit 2, purl 2 — then keep doing that exact sequence all the way to the end of the row.
*K1, M1R, k to marker, M1L; rep from * 4 times
Do everything between the asterisks, then do it again 4 more times total.
Square Brackets [ ]
Used for a group of stitches worked together or repeated a set number of times.
Knit 2, purl 2 — and repeat that exact group 5 times.
Parentheses ( )
Usually used for multiple sizes listed together.
The first number is the smallest size. Pick your size at the beginning and circle or highlight every number in that position throughout the whole pattern.
Brackets with sizes: [ ]
Some patterns use square brackets for sizes instead:
Work even for 14 [15, 16, 17] inches
Same logic — find your size position and stick to it.
Step 4 — Understand Gauge (And Why It Actually Matters)
Every pattern starts with something like:
Gauge: 22 sts × 30 rows = 4" in stockinette on US 6 needles
This tells you how many stitches should fit in 4 inches of fabric. If your gauge doesn't match, your finished item won't be the right size — even if you follow every instruction perfectly.
Always knit a gauge swatch before starting a garment. It takes 20 minutes and can save your entire project.
- Too many stitches per inch → your tension is too tight → go up a needle size
- Too few stitches per inch → your tension is too loose → go down a needle size
Step 5 — Follow Along Row by Row
Never try to read three rows ahead while knitting. Work one row or round at a time. Use these simple tools:
- A sticky note or ruler placed under the current row so you don't lose your place
- A row counter (or the Notes app on your phone) to track where you are
- Highlighter on printed patterns to mark your size throughout
When a pattern says "work as established", it means continue the stitch pattern you've already set up — don't change anything, just keep going.
The Cheat Sheet: Common Pattern Phrases Decoded
| Phrase | What it means |
|---|---|
| Work even | Continue in pattern without increasing or decreasing |
| At the same time | Do two sets of instructions simultaneously — read ahead! |
| Place on hold / waste yarn | Remove these stitches from your needle temporarily |
| Pick up and knit | Insert needle into edge of fabric and create new stitches |
| Turn work | Flip your knitting to work back the other direction |
| Join to work in the round | Connect your stitches into a circle — don't twist! |
| Work in pattern as established | Keep doing what you've been doing |
| Bind off loosely | Use a bigger needle or stretchy method when finishing |
One Last Thing: It's Okay to Not Understand Immediately
Every knitter — even experienced ones — encounters a pattern instruction that makes them stop and think. When that happens:
- Re-read it slowly, word by word
- Search the specific phrase on YouTube — someone has definitely explained it visually
- Ask in a knitting forum (like this one!) — the community always helps
The pattern is not smarter than you. It's just speaking a language you're still learning. And like any language, the more you practice, the more natural it becomes.
What's the most confusing pattern abbreviation you've ever encountered? Drop it in the comments — let's decode it together! 🧶